Funky Fingers Finger Trainer V1

More finger gains with ergonomic loading. The Funky Fingers Finger Trainer automatically adjusts to fit your hand's unique anatomy, distributing equal loads across each finger.

• Universal ErgoEdge: the ideal “unlevelness” for your unique fingers. Allows for the optimal open hand, half-crimp, and full-crimp position.
• Equal Load Distribution: The whipple tree linkage ensures that each finger is loaded with the same force. No matter how your fingers are positioned, the force is equally distributed.
• Portable: Packs away smaller than two decks of cards. Weighs 108 grams (3.8 oz).
• Adjustable per-finger depth: features a quick-adjust depth stop for each individual finger. Adjustment range is from 8mm-22mm, accommodates both small and large hands.
• Ergonomic: each finger edge has 3D-rounding to ensure comfort.

See the How to use guide for a detailed guide on how to use it.

⚠ Carabiner not included.

⚠ This is our V1 release; a fully functional, unique design that is still evolving. We welcome your feedback as we continue to refine it.

⚠ The freeform design of the FFFT means that it will take some time to learn how to use it. It will take at least 3 sessions to get comfortable with using it.

What’s wrong with a normal straight-edge block?

The straight edge and arbitrary finger depth results in non optimal loading of the finger flexor muscles and is not ergonomic for long term strength training.

Because your fingers are different lengths, a straight edge loads them differently. This is most noticeable with the pinky - when doing a half crimp, the pinky is too short to also be in the half crimp position and ends up being in an open hand position. Another example is that it’s impossible to train a three finger drag with four fingers simply because the pinky is too short. This uneven bending results in some fingers never training certain angles.

Why would I want to train with an ergonomic finger trainer?

Ergonomic finger training carries over to more grip positions.
Isometric training at a certain joint angle does not transfer well to other joint angles. This means that training on a straight edge limits your strength to holds that put your fingers in similar positions.
An ergonomic finger trainer lets you train every finger in a half-crimp and an open-hand position. This lets you train more joint angles for all of your fingers.

Why would I want per-finger adjustable edge depth?

Every finger is different, and what works for one finger might aggravate another finger. The FFFT allows you to adjust the finger depth to be comfortable for all of your fingers.

How does the FFFT let me train in any grip?

The Funky Fingers Finger Trainer uses a whipple tree pulley system that allows the fingers to be in any position. The load is distributed equally to each finger no matter the position.

See the how to use guide for more details.

Will I lift more weight with the FFFT compared to a straight edge?

No, you will lift less weight.
You will be limited by your weakest finger. This is good - you will be training your weakest link and you will quickly make gains in your grip strength.
The FFFT is an unstable surface which makes it difficult to pull as hard compared to a typical straight edge.

Will this fit my hands?

The FFFT can accommodate a finger length difference of more than 60mm (2.4in). It can also accommodate wide hands since the finger edges are attached on a rope and can be spread apart as wide as needed.
When all of the edges are touching together, it is roughly 65mm (2.5 in) wide. If your hands are narrower than 65mm, the FFFT might not be comfortable to use.
If the FFFT does not fit your hand, we will give you a full refund.

Does the FFFT replace all finger training?

No, the FFFT is designed specifically to train crimps and open hand (FDP and FDS predominant grip types). If you want to train other grip types (pinches, slopers, pockets), other specialized training tools will be more efficient.

Don’t forget to train your wrists too - you aren’t always pulling with your wrists in a neutral position.

Can I do finger curls / concentric movement / yielding isometrics with this?

Yes! This is where the FFFT shines. Since the length adjusts automatically you won’t be limited to the range of motion of your shortest finger. When doing a curl, the position of your fingertips change relative to each other. The FFFT automatically adjusts keeping equal force distributed on each finger.

See the how to use guide for an illustration.

Will this make me a better climber?

It's up to you to translate finger strength gains into sends.

Who do you recommend this for? So, is this for me?

Climbers that have several years of climbing experience and want a more efficient finger training tool.

If you are a beginner, it is likely that you still need to develop your overall grip strength, tendons / connective tissue, and climbing skill. Climbing is more than just flexing the FDP and FDS really hard - it's a movement sport, and strength is only useful if it allows you to do the movement you need.

How much weight can the FFFT handle?

Guaranteed rock solid up to 100kg (220lbs) total, 25kg (55lbs) per finger.

But what if I have really, really strong fingers?

The trainer is designed to have the rope slip at about 40kg per finger (160kg total).

I don’t have 4 fingers, can I still use this?

Unfortunately no, all four edges have to be pulled with the same force.

If you have more or less than four fingers, please reach out and I will see if a custom training tool can be made.

Can I train my toe crimp with the FFFT?

We too aspire to be like Charles. See the how to use guide.

How does this "automatic adjustment" thing even work?

To automatically adjust the length, the FFFT uses two mechanisms - pulleys and a whippletree. Two finger edges are connected together using a pulley. If the forces are unequal, then the finger edges will move relative to each other until the forces are equal again. The pulleys are attached to a whippletree - this is a linkage which behaves similar to a pulley. The linkage distributes the forces equally no matter how it is rotated. This allows the mechanism to distribute the force equally to all four finger edges regardless of the position of the finger edge.

What is the finger edge geometry?

Each finger edge curves up on the sides to cup the finger. This distributes the load across the finger much more comfortably compared to a flat edge. This allows the corner radius to be a small 2mm while still being comfortable.

Where is it made, and what is it made out of?

Made in Canada with imported parts:

So you must be an expert in strength training and have ridiculously strong fingers, right?

Quite the opposite! 

I really love rock climbing and I didn’t do any supplementary training when I first started. Initially, this was enough stimulus to get my fingers stronger. But after a while I started to notice a plateau in my finger strength.
I then started hangboarding, but it was time consuming, inefficient, and it caused finger tweaks due to my funky shaped fingers.
I ended up going down a rabbit hole of figuring out how to make finger training efficient and ended up with the funky finger finger trainer. Now I’m doing the least amount of finger training that lets me spend the most amount of time climbing.
So I (Larry, the designer of the FFFT) decided to make a finger trainer that lets me maximize the amount of time I spend climbing.

What are the gotchas?

The major ones are:

1. The freeform nature of the FFFT does not give you any feedback on your form. In fact, it is easier to use it with bad form than good form. You have to consciously maintain good finger form for proper training stimulus. Although, this does train you to be more conscious of your grip.
2. The finger edges pull the fingers in slightly odd directions which makes it not fully ergonomic. This is the best design I could come up with while keeping the device simple and versatile.
3. The finger edges are an “unstable edge” which means that you won’t be able to pull as hard as possible on it. If your goal is lifting the most amount of weight on an edge, this isn’t the tool for you.

Even with these flaws, surely it’s the best there is?

No, that would be the Hand of God. It is a finger trainer that is fully customized based on a photograph of your hand. It is perfectly ergonomic and a work of art.

What is the ecological footprint of my consumerism?

The biggest ecological impact is the resin 3D printed parts. They are not recyclable, and they will wear out or break, eventually contributing to waste.

We try to be environmentally responsible with our shipping. Both the envelope and the shipping label are made from 100% recycled material, and are curbside recyclable. The shipping label adhesive is recyclable, so you should be able to just toss the packaging in the recycle bin as is.

We are thinking of ways to manufacture the FFFT that uses less plastic (especially resin 3D printed plastic), but the complex geometry of the finger edge makes that tricky.